Gongbao jiding, or kung pao chicken, is one of the most iconic Chinese dishes worldwide. And while it takes on various forms across the globe — even in its native country — there is no consensus on where it comes from or what it should taste like. Eager to get to the truth of the matter, historian Thomas DuBois set out to find the most “authentic” version of the dish.

Reporters: Lü Xiao and Wu Huiyuan; video editor: Lü Xiao; graphic designer: Fu Xiaofan; story editor: Vincent Chow; copy editor: Tom Arnstein; additional footage: Ding Yining; special thanks: Shanghai New Oriental Cooking School